Between Fish

Often the most memorable places are the ones that are hard to reach, such as a tiny island that pokes its rocky snout up amid rips and tide races.

Working the shallow tidewaters by kayak, I move between schools of here-and-now stripers and the history of an ancient salt marsh on the eve of the Revolution

These lonely little fish towns have their own peculiar rhythms, their own unwritten rules. One set of dos and don’ts for locals, another for tourists